We welcome you back to another episode of the Homebrew Happy Hour … the podcast where we answer YOUR homebrewing questions and discuss all things related to craft beer!
On Today’s Show:
Todd and James are BOTH able to join me this week to take YOUR questions! Specifically, we talk about using hydrometers and refractometers and we also take a question about better understanding what temperatures are important when setting your brew day timers. It’s a great episode for newer brewers and we appreciate those who continue to send questions in as well as trust us to help you as a new brewer!
We want to hear from you!
If you have a question that you’d like us to discuss on a future episode, please click on the “Submit a Question” link at the top of our website or you can now call in your questions via our questions hotline @ 325-305-6107 and leave your message after the beep. This is a friendly reminder that, if we choose your question for a future episode, we give you a $25 gift card to that episode’s sponsor!
Let us know what you think and enjoy the show!
cheers,
joshua
https://youtu.be/1MxvQGN6O84
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Become a Patron! Reminder that these episodes are ultimately made possible because of YOUR support. Consider becoming a member of our newly launched Patreon page and receive perks such as merch, exclusive group access and content, recipes, and some tiers even get monthly recipe kits mailed to you!
It’s time for another episode of the Homebrew Happy Hour … the podcast where we answer YOUR homebrewing questions and discuss all things related to craft beer!
On Today’s Show:
It’s been a couple of weeks since we released an episode! If you haven’t kept up on our social media (Facebook or Instagram, specifically), a lot has gone on the last several weeks. Between Todd’s neck surgery, my vasectomy (insert sad violin music here), and then my daughter Esther had a week long stay at the hospital for a brain tumor, no kidding! Long story short – everyone is doing fine now. They successfully removed a ganglioglioma tumor from my daughter’s brain, it was benign, and has a less than 10% chance of ever coming back. I want to thank you all for reaching out to me during the whole ordeal and for your thoughts and prayers. Truly, it meant the world to me and our community is the best community ever!
SO – with all that being said, episode 150 features Tyler Sadler; a fantastic homebrewer out of southern California who is brewing up some awesome beers and is very active in her local homebrewer club, the Socal Cerveceros! It was so much fun getting to know her and learn more about her background and future plans in brewing. You definitely need to be following her on Instagram at @TylersBrew
We want to hear from you!
If you have a question that you’d like us to discuss on a future episode, please click on the “Submit a Question” link at the top of our website or you can now call in your questions via our questions hotline @ 325-305-6107 and leave your message after the beep. This is a friendly reminder that, if we choose your question for a future episode, we give you a $25 gift card to that episode’s sponsor!
Let us know what you think and enjoy the show!
cheers,
joshua
01:11 – Introducing Tyler Sadler
02:08 – Catching you up on why we went two weeks without an episode
04:30 – Tyler recaps her California Craft Beer summit experience
07:08 – Background about SoCal Cerveceros
15:16 – Tyler’s background as a homebrewer
25:11 – Tyler going over the equipment she’s used and currently using
32:17 – Thinking of the season when preparing for a brew day
33:27 – Tyler’s future goals as a brewer
36:08 – Where you can follow Tyler online
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Become a Patron! Reminder that these episodes are ultimately made possible because of YOUR support. Consider becoming a member of our newly launched Patreon page and receive perks such as merch, exclusive group access and content, recipes, and some tiers even get monthly recipe kits mailed to you!
Beginning beer brewers are often stymied when faced with the task of creating their own recipes from scratch. Many may start with recipe kits from their homebrew store (a good bet for beginners), or from a recipe they found from a book or the internet so creating a brand new recipe may seem a bit formidable.
Just like with baking, where set amounts of flour, sugar, salt and cocoa come together to form the beginning of a chocolate cake, malted grain, hops, yeast and water come together to form the basics of a beer. It’s the combination of those ingredients and the amounts needed that form the final product and that is the key to creating the beer you wish to make.
Getting Started
The very first step is to consider the style or type of beer
you are going to brew. Do you want
something light and crisp for summer, something heavy and roasty for sipping by
the fire, or something unlike either of those?
If you don’t have a specific recognized style in mind, think of some
adjectives to describe the beer you picture drinking, and even consider writing
them down. Descriptive words like
malty, hoppy, roasty, fruity, clean, British style, toasty, warm, tart, etc.,
will all give you a base to start with.
Decide if you want a lighter style like a ‘lawnmower beer’ or something
bigger and bolder, and combine it with those key words you selected. For example, if you’re thinking “clean”,
“crisp” and “light” you may be considering something like a cream ale or a
light American lager. Once you have
that style or type in your mind, with the qualities you wish for it to have,
you are well on your way.
This is also a good time to consider the amount of alcohol
you’d like the beer to have, within a rough percentage so you can begin to
choose the amount of ingredients you will be using.
With that done, it is now time to think about the
ingredients you will use in your recipe, and begin selecting them.
Malt
Malted grains form the base of any beer. Whether brewing from all grains or from malt extract, this is the largest component of the beer. When choosing the grains, think of the qualities again of the beer you are making and that will help you decide what to begin with. Generally, a base malt from the country or area where the style originated is a good bet. Base malt is the grain that makes up the majority of your grain bill. For example, if you’ve decided you would like a British brown ale, choosing a British malt like maris otter or a malt extract made from English malts would be a good base. The base malt should make up 85-100% of your beer in most cases and is the first building block.
Specialty grains are the (usually) malted grains that give color, flavor, aroma, and even body to your beer. They range from crystal malts that can impart different degrees of sweetness all the way to black malt that can give a roasty or even a burnt acrid flavor to your brew. Think of the characteristics again you’ve decided upon. Do you picture a toasty flavor with some sweetness? Or a bit of roast? Or perhaps a bit of both? Now is the time to choose the grains that will give you those flavors.
A word of caution here- “less is more” usually applies. Until you are well experienced with the
proportions and amounts of specialty ingredients in the beers you like and are
making, using less specialty grains to start with is advised. Many beers may utilize crystal malts in
varying amounts from 1-15% in beers where crystal malt is appropriate, but unless you are certain that you are
hopping enough to balance a very high percentage of crystal malts, you may want
to stay in the middle of that range.
A good place to start is to plan on your grainbill being at
least 80-90% base malt, using the specialty grains for color and flavor in the
remainder.
Using our example of a British brown ale, where you may want
a malt-forward easy drinking ale with an alcohol level of about 5% and some
caramel notes with a hint of nutty character, choose maris otter as the base
malt (or an English pale ale extract), in the amount of 85-88% or so. Add your specialty grains in smaller amounts. Generally, about 5-7% medium crystal malt
would be a good choice for this style.
Adding about 2% British chocolate malt for color and dryness would be
welcome here, and even some victory malt or biscuit malt for that “toasty”
flavor would be nice (up to 5% or so).
Reading through some of the common base malts and specialty
grains will help you decide on which to use in your recipe. Most homebrew stores have a list of the
grains and extracts they sell, along with a good description. The reason to choose maris otter in the
British brown ale came from this description from Homebrewsupply.com: Developed
in Cambridge by Dr.Bell, Pale Maris Otter is 2 row winter barley perfect for
British Ales. Developed in order to preserve the traditional flavors found in
British Ales of all sorts Pale Maris Otter offer a rich, slightly nutty flavor
with an orange tinted wort.
If choosing malts seems to be overwhelming, you may want to consider a SMaSH (Single Malt and Single Hop) beer. Using one base malt in the amount of 10 pounds per 5 gallon (US) batch would give you about a 5% beer. Choosing one or two specialty grains at a time, in smaller amounts, and adding that to your recipe will give you a distinct image of what each ingredient brings to your beer.
Hops
Hops are grown around the world now, giving brewers a larger selection than ever before and new varieties are being introduced frequently. Choosing them can be tricky if you’re not experienced with the different types and variety available. Hops are primarily used to provide bitterness to the beer, as a counter to the sweet malt but hops also provide flavor and aroma as well.
When making your first few recipes, you may decide to go
with a safe choice, using a variety from a country/area where you are sourcing
your malt. Again, in the example of the
British brown, you can find some classic “English” varieties, like East Kent
Goldings that would be terrific in this beer.
Alternatively, if you’re making an American IPA using US base malt, you may pick some wonderful and unexpected choices like the newer varieties from Australia or some of the newer “cryo” hops. The key is to find hop that won’t clash with your goals, and will enhance the entire beer. Reading the description of the hops from the producers’ websites will give you a good idea of what the hops will bring to your beer. Words like “woody”, “dank”, “tropical”, “floral”, “fruity”, “spicy” and “minty” may seem strange for beer ingredients at first, but the descriptions will help you imagine the balance of those flavors in your beer.
Yeast
Yeast is the undersung hero of the brewing world. The brewer makes the wort, but it’s the yeast that makes the beer. Choosing yeast is the final step in creating your recipe. There are many manufacturers of quality brewing yeast nowadays, and you can find a great selection in your homebrew shop. The best source of information on the yeast is on the manufacturer’s website They have descriptions of their products, along with recommended styles for their use as well as the fermentation temperature ranges and attenuation percentages.
When choosing a strain, once again consider the beer you are making. Choosing a strain designed for certain beer styles will be a good bet. As in our example above, English brown ale, picking a quality yeast meant for English ales would give a good result. Most manufacturers have a selection of English ale yeast strains to help you decide.
Water
Water is the final ingredient to consider. Since beer is 90% water, chlorine-free non-softened water is crucial for making the best beer. Getting a water report for your water is the best way to begin to delve into brewing water treatment. Many brewers have great brewing water naturally, while many others do not. Once you have a water report, or make a choice to purchase reverse osmosis or distilled water, you are ready to consider adding water treatments to your repertoire. We have a beginning’s guide to using reverse osmosis water here: https://www.homebrewsupply.com/learn/intro-reverse-osmosis-brewing-better-beer.html If you tap water has been working for you (and you take steps to remove the chlorine), that could be a fine choice as well.
Putting it All Together
Once you’ve chosen your ingredients, it’s time to create
your recipe. While many use paper and
pencil, the vast majority of brewers find that using some brewing software
makes the process far less painful and even more fun. The software does the calculations for you,
including the percentages of the grains, the likely original gravity and final
gravity of the beer, the ABV (alcohol by volume) and the IBUs (International
bittering units) of the beer. An added
bonus is that the ingredients often have descriptions, country of origin, and
even recommended amounts to use.
In our English brown ale example above, we decided on our
grain and hops.
Putting that into a software package, in this case Brewer’s Friend, we see:
And now for the hops. In our software, it helpfully gives us tips as to how many IBUs (and the color of the beer) we need for our English brown ale, and we have green check marks showing we are in range:
Now, we choose the yeast and we are all set!
Our recipe is finished (except for the water calculator
part), and we’ve hit all of our goals for an English brown ale:
Most software packages are similar in the calculations part,
so choose one that meets your needs and feels right to you. There are many free or very low cost ones
out there, many of them cloud based.
Entire books have been written on the creation of beer recipes, and if you’d like more information, Designing Great Beers by Ray Daniels and Brewing Classic Styles by Jamil Zainasheff & John Palmer are the most notable ones geared for homebrewers. There are also websites and forums online dedicated to helping others learn more about brewing and they can also be a valuable source of information.
Märzenbier [March beer] is a copper-colored German beer and
per its name, typically brewed in March. Märzenbier originated in the 16th
century when Bavarian brewers wanted to use their extra hops and malts before
brewing stopped for the summer. They would brew from September 29 (St.
Michael’s Day) to April 23 (St. George’s Day) due to a Bavarian decree
issued in 1553 from Duke Albrecht V, and only applied to Bavaria. These cold
fermented beers helped drive off potential bacterial infection that was
prevalent at the time in Ales. Uniquely, the caves around Munich provided the
perfect environment to lager beer throughout the summer. Since they would have to store the beer for
long periods of time, a higher gravity and higher volume of hops were used, which
act as natural preservatives. Though they would drink Märzenbier throughout the
summer months, by the middle of fall, fresh grains and casks would be in high
demand for storage. This meant that the older, lagered beer would need to be consumed
in a hurry to make room for new tasty beers!
In royal fashion, the wedding of Prince Ludwig of Bavaria and Princess Therese of Saxony-Hildburghausen on October 12, 1810 would set the foundation of Oktoberfest as we know it. Prince Ludwig invited all of Munich to a meadow outside of the city to celebrate his wedding, which lasted for 5 days! The party was such a success, Prince Ludwig mandated that the celebration occur every year on their wedding anniversary. The official Oktoberfest takes place in that same meadow to this day.
Partially due to time of the year, the first beer to be served at the celebration was Märzenbier, but not as we know it today. Back then, it was more along the lines of a Dunkel, being darker, maltier and having a higher alcohol content. The change ocurred when they ran low on beer in 1872 and Spaten Brewery supplied a lighter amber colored lager called Ur-Märzen which was an adaptation of the Vienna Lager. This was quickly adopted around the city as what would become modern Märzenbier and be the official beer of Oktoberfest. This tradition lasted until 1990 when the lighter golden Festbier took over being the standard festival beer.
A ‘Märzen’ is a medium body beer that has a clean lager
profile, rich, toasty, and bready malt flavor with restrained bitterness, and a
dry finish. The first impression should suggest sweetness but finish dry to
medium-dry. The alcohol in this beer should never be overpowering but can be
lightly detected in the aroma. The overall malt impression should be soft,
elegant and complex, with a rich aftertaste that is never heavy. It should have
a creamy texture, which would often suggest fuller mouthfeel. There should be low to no hop aroma, no caramel, dry-biscuity, or roasted malt
aromas present in this style.
My method is pretty straight forward and I have had great success so far with this style. While I have never done a decoction for this style, the BJCP says that it traditionally used to help develop the rich malt profile. But you can still get great results without doing this. When brewing, I aim for a fermenter volume of 5.2 gallons, and I’ll transfer into a keg with a cut dip tube w/ airlock for secondary place in my kegerator to lager. I work with a blank slate by getting some distilled water from my local grocery store. This is definitely something you don’t have to do but water will make a difference in this beer. Water profile what I went with for this beer was my Märzen profile Calcium: 12ppm Magnesium: 17ppm Sodium: 4ppm Sulfate: 18ppm Chloride: 8ppm Bicarbonate: 0 ppm. The way that it works out is:
Mash water 4.83 gallons is .98g Epsom salt, .39g Calcium
Chloride, .09 chalk
Sparge water 3.39 gallons is .69g Epsom Salt, .27g Calcium
Chloride, .06g chalk.
Fermentation schedule 52 degrees for week and half and check
5 points from the end of fermentation raise the temperature to room temp for
diacetyl rest for 2 days then lower the temp 5 degrees a day till you reach 36
degrees then you will hold steady and lager for 6 weeks.
Commercial
Examples: Buergerliches Ur-Saalfelder, Hacker-Pschorr Original
Oktoberfest, Paulaner Oktoberfest, Weltenburg Kloster Anno 1050
thank you for tuning in to our home brewing podcast
we welcome you to the Homebrew Happy Hour … the podcast where we answer YOUR homebrewing questions and discuss all things related to craft beer!
On Today’s Show:
The gang is all back together again! Todd is here, James is here, I am, well, obviously here. If I had enough money to license “Reunited” by Peaches & Herb I would, but just hum it in your head when you first hear us all on together in this episode. 🙂
We are not only back as a threesome, we also take YOUR questions on homebrewing. Specifically, we discuss when to use nitro and why you’d want to PLUS we discuss our favorite way to chill our wort when brewing in Texas: using TWO wort chillers. It isn’t as difficult nor as expensive as you might be thinking it is. Also — here are the keg labels we had made that I talked about on today’s show, since I forgot to inject them into the video. My bad!
This episode was a ton of fun to produce so I hope you enjoy episode 149 of our show!
We want to hear from you!
If you have a question that you’d like us to discuss on a future episode, please click on the “Submit a Question” link at the top of our website or you can now call in your questions via our questions hotline @ 325-305-6107 and leave your message after the beep. This is a friendly reminder that, if we choose your question for a future episode, we give you a $25 gift card to that episode’s sponsor!
14:14 – First question, “How to use NItro to dispense”
24:44 – Second question, “Using two wort chillers?”
Today’s show is brought to you by HomebrewSupply.com! HBS’ has all of your favorite recipe kits, fresh ingredients, and homebrew equipment in stock. Homebrew Happy Hour listeners can visit HomebrewSupply.com and use the promo code “HHH” to receive 5% off your order.
(Discount can not be applied to products that are drop shipped including, but not limited to, products by Spike Brewing, SS BrewTech, Brewer’s Edge Mash & Boil, and more. See website for details)
Ladik Joe Ermis from Homebrew Supply joins us once again to go over the extremely popular temperature controller from Inkbird – their ITC-308. It’s market proven, utilized by thousands of home brewers who need to control their fermentation temps, cold conditioning/lagering temps, and more!
Info from the manufacture: Plug and play design, easy to use Dual relay output, be able to connect with refrigeration and heating equipment at the same time Support reading with Centigrade or Fahrenheit unit Maximum output load: 1200W(110V) Dual display window, be able to display measured temperature and set temperature at the same time Temperature calibration Compressor delay protection for refrigeration control High and low temperature alarms are available Over-temperature and sensor fault alarm Heating/cooling differential function could be set separately for refrigeration and heating to protect temperature controller from violent change
and thank you for tuning in to our home brewing podcast
and we welcome you to the Homebrew Happy Hour … the podcast where we answer YOUR homebrewing questions and discuss all things related to craft beer!
On Today’s Show:
Todd’s surgery was a success! He is already home and recovering well, which means that he could not join us today as we’d rather not have a drugged up Todd Burns on the show. Can you imagine his dancing at the beginning of the show being worse than it already is? The thought terrifies me.
With that being said, Handsome James Carlson joins me to take your home brewing related questions on today’s episode. Specifically, we talk about which part of the #brewday process is FLAVOR most affected and we also talk about hot breaks and head retention. It’s actually way more exciting than it probably sounds!
If you have a question that you’d like us to discuss on a future episode, please click on the “Submit a Question” link at the top of our website or you can now call in your questions via our questions hotline @ 325-305-6107 and leave your message after the beep. This is a friendly reminder that, if we choose your question for a future episode, we give you a $25 gift card to that episode’s sponsor!
17:15 First question, “When is flavor most affected during the brewing process”
29:50 Second question, “does removing hot break affect head retention?”
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Today’s show is brought to you by HomebrewSupply.com! HBS’ has all of your favorite recipe kits, fresh ingredients, and homebrew equipment in stock. Homebrew Happy Hour listeners can visit HomebrewSupply.com and use the promo code “HHH” to receive 5% off your order.
(Discount can not be applied to products that are drop shipped including, but not limited to, products by Spike Brewing, SS BrewTech, Brewer’s Edge Mash & Boil, and more. See website for details)
For the month of August, we partnered with our friends at StickerYou and held a label contest which received TONS of entries, most of which were way better than anything I could ever design and now I have to justify a part of my job to Todd. So… thanks for that, guys.
ANYWAY – We’re happy to announce the winners of the contest! Before I get to that, quick funny story: I sent all of the labels to Todd and James once the contest ended and asked them to rank their favorite 3 while I did the same. When we convened, none of us picked the same 3. In fact, none of us picked the same at all and each had 3 totally different favorites from the other. Since this is a group effort, the most fair thing for me to do was to use my 3 choices since I edit everything… Kidding! What I really did was take each person’s favorite label and threw it into a hat. We then drew from there and below is the results!
THANK YOU SO MUCH for entering our contest and for being a part of our home brewing community. Your labels were incredible and the beers that these labels were made for are probably amazing as well.
3rd Prize, $125 worth of custom printed labels from StickerYou
submitted by Philip S
2nd Prize, $175 worth of custom printed labels from StickerYou
submitted by Rob P
GRAND PRIZE WINNER, $200 worth of custom printed labels from StickerYou
We prefer to keg (versus bottling) for a multitude of reasons but we understand how intimidating or overwhelming it can be trying to decide which type of keg is best for using because there are a ton of choices when it comes to which type of home brewing keg you can buy.
Thankfully, James Carlson from CMBecker International is here to go over the basics of the most commonly used types of kegs for homebrewers who brew in 5 gallon batches or less.
If you listen to our podcast, you already know that we’re huge fans of kegging. It allows us to more easily store our beer, serve our beer, and, most importantly, enjoy our beer even faster than conventional bottling allows.
This is due to kegs allowing the user to do a process called “forced carbonation”. What this does is literally forces the gas (most often CO2 but sometimes Nitrogen) to infuse into the beer and create the ideal carbonation levels much quicker than if you were to use priming sugar and do “natural” carbonation in bottles or other containers.
https://youtu.be/-CeCV9vGdnA
In this video, Todd shows just how easy it is to force carbonate your beer in any homebrew keg. Let us know if you have any questions or if you have feedback on what topic we should cover next!